The Two Seasons of Elder

Elder (Sambucus nigra) is one of our most generous hedgerow plants, offering two distinct harvests. In late May and June, its creamy-white flower heads scent the lanes with a sweet, musky perfume. By late August and September, those same bushes hang heavy with clusters of small, dark purple berries. Both have been used in British kitchens for centuries, but they demand respect: the leaves, bark and roots are toxic, and the berries must never be eaten raw. Learn to identify the plant confidently, harvest sustainably, and you will have cordials, jams and crumbles to see you through the year.

Identifying Elder Safely

Elder is a shrub or small tree, often growing in hedgerows, woodland edges and waste ground. Its bark is grey-brown and corky, with deep fissures on older wood. The leaves are opposite, pinnate (like a feather), with five to seven oval, serrated leaflets. Crush a leaf and you will notice an unpleasant, almost nauseous smell — a useful confirmation. The flowers grow in flat-topped, umbrella-like clusters (cymes) up to 20cm across, each head made of countless tiny, creamy-white, five-petalled flowers. They have a heavy, sweet fragrance.

The berries are small, glossy, nearly black when fully ripe, and hang in drooping clusters. Do not confuse elder with other plants. Dwarf elder (Sambucus ebulus) has pink-tinged flowers and foul-smelling leaves; it is toxic. Red-berried elder (Sambucus racemosa) has bright red berries and is also poisonous. Wild privet and dogwood have black berries, but their leaves are simple and opposite, not pinnate. If you are unsure, leave it. Also avoid picking from busy roadsides, where exhaust pollution lingers, or from hedges that may have been sprayed.

Harvesting with Care

For elderflowers, pick on a dry, sunny morning after the dew has dried. Choose heads that are fully open, with fresh, creamy petals — avoid brown or drooping ones. Snip the whole head with scissors, leaving a short stalk. Shake gently to dislodge insects, but don't wash the flowers; you will lose the pollen that carries much of the flavour. Use them the same day.

Elderberries ripen from late August. Wait until the clusters are fully dark purple and the berries fall easily from the stems. Never pick green or red berries — they are toxic. Use a fork to strip berries from the stems, or freeze the whole heads for an hour, then shake the berries loose. Always leave plenty for the birds and other wildlife. Take only what you need, and never strip a bush bare.

Elderflower in the Kitchen

Elderflower cordial is the classic. You will need about 20–30 flower heads, 1.5kg sugar, 2 unwaxed lemons, 1.5 litres water and 50g citric acid (available from pharmacies or home-brew shops). Bring the water and sugar to a boil, stirring until dissolved. Pour over the flower heads, sliced lemons and citric acid in a large bowl. Cover and leave for 24–48 hours, stirring occasionally. Strain through muslin, bottle, and keep in the fridge for up to six weeks, or freeze in ice-cube trays. Dilute with sparkling water for a refreshing summer drink.

For something different, dip elderflower heads in a light batter and fry in sunflower oil for a minute until crisp — elderflower fritters are a delicate treat. You can also infuse elderflowers in white wine vinegar for salad dressings, or make elderflower champagne by fermenting the cordial with a little yeast. The flavour pairs beautifully with gooseberry, rhubarb and lemon.

Elderberry in the Kitchen

Elderberries must always be cooked. Raw berries, stems and leaves contain cyanogenic glycosides, which can cause nausea and worse. Remove every green stem — a tedious job, but essential. A simple syrup is the best place to start. Simmer 1kg ripe berries with 500ml water for 20 minutes, mashing them to release the juice. Strain through muslin, then add 500g sugar or honey and simmer until slightly thickened. Bottle in sterilised jars. Take a spoonful in hot water for a winter warmer.

For jam, elderberries are low in pectin, so combine them with equal weight of chopped apples or blackberries. Cook down with sugar and a squeeze of lemon until setting point. Elderberry crumble is a real autumn comfort: stew the berries with a little sugar and a splash of water, top with a buttery oat crumble, and bake until golden. You can also make elderberry ketchup, wine or fruit leather. The berries have a deep, slightly tart, almost port-like flavour that stands up well to game and strong cheeses.

Safety and Foraging Ethics

Always cook elderberries thoroughly, and never eat them raw. Discard any berries that are green, red or unripe. Avoid the leaves, bark and roots entirely. If you are pregnant, breastfeeding, or on medication, check with a health professional before using elder products. When foraging, follow the countryside code: leave gates as you find them, take only a little from any one bush, and never dig up wild plants. Elder is a vital food source for birds, moths and butterflies — the flowers feed bees, and the berries sustain thrushes and blackcaps. By harvesting thoughtfully, you become part of the hedgerow's long story, enjoying its gifts without taking them all.